Baseline Natural Skincare
A calm, protective, vegan routine — designed to help skin feel safe, nourished, and steady.

A Barrier-First Skincare System

This system treats skin as a living, self‑regulating organ, not a surface to be corrected. The goal is to reduce disruption, preserve what already functions well, and allow the skin to return to a stable, comfortable baseline.

Barrier‑first care is not about adding more products. It is about removing unnecessary interference so the skin’s own repair, defence, and regulation mechanisms can operate with less friction.

The organising principle

Healthy skin depends on continuity: of lipids, pH, microbes, and routine. Repeated disruption — even when mild — accumulates over time.

  • Preserve: acid mantle, microbiome balance, lipid structure
  • Avoid: frequent detergents, over‑exfoliation, constant product changes
  • Support: gentle lipid cleansing and low-step post‑wash sealing

What this system prioritises

Minimal surface disruption

Detergents and actives are efficient at changing skin quickly, but they also dismantle protective structures. This system favours slower, less disruptive methods that clean and protect without repeatedly stripping.

Lipid continuity

The outer barrier relies on fats and waxes (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, sebum). Lipid‑based cleansing and occlusive finishing help maintain this continuity instead of dissolving it daily.

pH stability

The mildly acidic surface of healthy skin supports enzymes, limits pathogen growth, and reduces water loss. Avoiding alkaline shocks allows this acidity to re‑establish naturally.

Low inflammatory load

Skin reacts not only to strong irritants but to cumulative, repeated stress. Fewer steps and fewer variables reduce the background inflammatory burden.

What people usually notice over time

  • Skin feels normal after washing — not tight, squeaky, or greasy
  • Reduced urgency to “fix” the skin with new products
  • Improved tolerance to shaving, weather, and water exposure
  • Texture and appearance stabilise after comfort improves

Common points of friction

  • Over‑cleansing: even gentle cleansers can be too frequent
  • Too many inputs: changing multiple variables at once masks causes and effects
  • Correction loops: exfoliating to fix irritation caused by exfoliation

Recipes

Nurturing Glow Butter

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A rich emollient and occlusive finishing layer used after water-based hydration to reduce evaporation and soften dry-feeling skin.

Formula Profile

Anhydrous • vegan • whipped butter-and-oil texture • rich finish • preservative-free because no water is present.

Comedogenic Rating — 1.1 (Low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Shea butter provides the main structure and occlusive body; cucumber seed, argan and jojoba improve spread and emollience; lavender is present as the aromatic phase.

Design Rationale

The formula keeps shea dominant so the product remains a butter, while the liquid oils reduce brittleness and improve melt and spread.

Variables & Fixed Elements

No recipe-specific slider. The ingredient balance is fixed; batch size and measurement display can still be scaled.

Limitations & Trade-offs

This is not a water-based moisturiser and does not add water to the skin by itself. It works best over a hydration step when water retention is the goal.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Whip the softened shea butter until light and fluffy.
  2. Drizzle in the cucumber seed oil, argan oil, and jojoba oil slowly while whipping until fully incorporated.
  3. Chill for 10 minutes, then whip again for a stable, airy texture.
  4. Add the lavender essential oil and whip briefly to distribute evenly.
  5. Jar immediately. Tap the jar gently to release trapped air pockets, then cap.

Usage

  • Apply a small amount after bathing or washing, ideally while the skin is still slightly damp so the butter can seal in the water already on the skin.
  • Warm the butter between the fingertips or palms before spreading; a thin layer is usually enough because the formula softens quickly with body heat.
  • Use on the body or on targeted dry areas as needed. Add more only where the skin still feels dry rather than applying a heavy layer everywhere.
  • Avoid introducing water from wet hands into the jar during use.

Storage

  • Store tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, radiators and sustained heat.
  • Use clean, dry fingers or a dry spatula so the anhydrous formula remains free of water contamination.
  • The texture will soften in warmth and become firmer in cooler conditions; this physical change does not by itself indicate spoilage.
  • Use within the shortest best-before period of the oils and butters used, and discard the batch if the aroma, colour or texture develops an unexpected rancid or spoiled character.

Notes

  • Soft-set at room temperature; richer and more cushiony than a firm balm, and it melts quickly on contact.
  • The formula is anhydrous, so a conventional water-phase preservative is not required; keeping water out of the jar remains important during use.

Anhydrous Oil Cleanser

Batch: 1×

Purpose

An oil cleanser designed to loosen oil-soluble residue while keeping safflower as the main cleansing phase and allowing cleansing pull and barrier richness to be tuned independently.

Formula Profile

Anhydrous • preservative-free • safflower-led • castor adjustable from 0–18% • olive adjustable from 0–30% • safflower automatically fills the remainder.

Comedogenic Rating — 0.5 (Low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Safflower provides the light main phase. Castor increases cling and cleansing pull as it rises. Olive adds cushion and a richer post-cleanse barrier feel. The two controls can be combined while the formula remains exactly 100%.

Design Rationale

The former Reactive, Balanced and Enhanced Barrier formulas are now reference points on one continuous formulation. This removes separate variant tabs and keeps one authoritative ingredient list, method and formula.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Castor oil and olive oil are the two variables. Safflower automatically compensates for both. Reactive is the 0% castor / 0% olive point; Balanced is the 10% castor / 0% olive reference point; Enhanced Barrier is the 10% castor / 18% olive reference point.

Limitations & Trade-offs

More castor gives stronger cling and cleansing pull but a slower, grippier massage. More olive gives greater cushion and occlusion but a richer, heavier after-feel.

Cleansing pull
10% castor
0% — Reactive18% — Stronger pull
Barrier richness
0% olive
0% — Base cleanser30% — Richer barrier
Overall Feel

Balanced reference area. Castor adds controlled cleansing pull while the finish stays comparatively light when olive is low.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Combine: Measure the oils currently shown in the Ingredients list into a completely dry bottle or beaker.
  2. Mix: Swirl or roll until uniform.
  3. Rest: Cap, label, and let the blend settle for 30 minutes before first use.

Usage

  • Start with a small amount and massage it over dry skin to loosen oil-soluble residue, sunscreen and surface oils.
  • Use gentle fingertip pressure rather than prolonged rubbing. Add a little more cleanser only if extra slip is needed.
  • Remove with a warm damp cloth or rinse lightly as preferred, then continue with the rest of the skincare routine.
  • Higher castor settings increase cleansing pull; higher olive settings increase the richer, more cushioned after-feel.

Storage

  • Store in a clean, dry bottle away from direct sunlight and sustained heat.
  • Keep water out of the bottle and do not refill a partly used container with a new batch without cleaning and fully drying it first.
  • A pump or controlled-pour bottle helps reduce repeated hand contact with the stored oil.
  • Use within the shortest best-before period of the oils used and discard if the blend develops a distinctly rancid odour or other unexpected change.

Notes

  • Reactive reference: 0% castor • 0% olive • 100% safflower.
  • Balanced reference: 10% castor • 0% olive • 90% safflower.
  • Enhanced Barrier reference: 10% castor • 18% olive • 72% safflower.
  • The two sliders are continuous; the named points are landmarks, not separate variants.

Protective Touch Balm

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A targeted barrier balm for lips and dry areas where a more persistent protective film and controlled glide are useful.

Formula Profile

100 g reference batch • anhydrous • vegan • preservative-free • adjustable oil balance and firmness.

Comedogenic Rating — 1.4 (Low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Jojoba supplies smoother glide, castor adds cling, shea gives soft body, carnauba raises firmness and heat resistance, calendula adds an infused emollient phase, and vitamin E supports oxidation resistance.

Design Rationale

Oil balance and physical firmness are controlled separately so cling can be changed without automatically changing the set of the balm.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Castor changes against jojoba. Carnauba changes against shea. Calendula and vitamin E remain fixed.

Limitations & Trade-offs

Designed mainly for targeted dry areas rather than as a water-based hydration layer. A firmer or clingier setting may be less comfortable for broad facial use.

Meta

Barrier-first balm with a high-glide, protective finish. Vegan. No preservatives (anhydrous). Yield: 100 g. Includes vitamin E.

100 g balm. One batch; the sliders change the overall feel and the internal percentage balance of that batch.

Oil balance
8.0% castor • 38.5% jojoba
5% castor — More jojoba glide14% castor — More castor cling
Firmness
8.0% carnauba • 40.0% shea
5% carnauba — Softer melt11% carnauba — Firmer set
Overall Feel

Balanced protective slip with a medium set. Enough cling for cushioning, while pickup and spread stay controlled.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Gentle simmer: in the bottom pan. Keep all tools/containers completely dry.
  2. In the top pot add: carnauba wax + jojoba + castor. Heat and stir until wax is fully dissolved and the liquid is clear.
  3. Add shea butter: stir slowly until just melted and uniform.
  4. Add calendula oil: mix.
  5. Remove from heat: cool 1–2 minutes (still fully liquid), then stir in vitamin E.
  6. Rest 3–5 minutes: (no stirring) to let bubbles rise. Pour into jars.
  7. Set and cure: leave jars open (or loosely covered) until fully set and cool, then cap. Let cure overnight.

Usage

  • Apply a thin layer to the lips, knuckles, cuticles or other localised dry areas that benefit from a persistent protective film.
  • Warm a small amount between the fingertips first if the balm is firm, then spread it in a thin layer rather than applying a thick coat immediately.
  • Reapply only when the protective layer has worn away or the area again feels dry.
  • For congestion-prone facial skin, keep use targeted to the areas that need the extra barrier rather than using it as an all-over face product.

Storage

  • Store tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and sustained heat.
  • Keep water out of the jar and use clean, dry fingers or a dry spatula.
  • Allow a freshly made batch to cool completely before capping so condensation is not trapped inside the container.
  • The balm will become firmer when cold and softer when warm; discard it if it develops an unexpected rancid smell, visible contamination or other spoilage signs.

Notes

  • The oil-balance slider changes cling versus glide.
  • The firmness slider changes pickup resistance, structure and melt speed.
  • Because the product is anhydrous, storage hygiene is principally about keeping water and contamination out of the jar.

Anhydrous Massage Oil Blend

Batch: 1×

Purpose

An anhydrous massage medium that lets glide, traction and body be adjusted without introducing water or a conventional cream base.

Formula Profile

100 ml reference blend • anhydrous • preservative-free • olive, jojoba and castor oils.

Comedogenic Rating — 1.9 (Low–Moderate relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Jojoba remains fixed at 15% for balanced slip while castor changes traction against olive, keeping the total blend at 100%.

Design Rationale

One glide slider changes castor against olive so traction can be adjusted without changing the fixed jojoba balancing phase.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Castor varies from 0–15% against olive while jojoba remains fixed at 15%.

Limitations & Trade-offs

This is primarily a body-massage formula. Richer settings increase persistence and drag and may be more than is wanted on congestion-prone facial skin.

100 ml master blend. Jojoba stays fixed at 15%. Glide changes castor against olive.

Glide & traction
7.5% castor
0% castor — Freer slip15% castor — Richer drag
Overall Feel

Balanced olive setting. Controlled glide with enough grip to keep the stroke deliberate.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Make sure the bottle, cap, funnel, and all tools are completely dry.
  2. Add the jojoba oil, castor oil, and olive oil in the amounts shown for your chosen glide.
  3. Cap and roll or swirl until fully uniform.
  4. Let the blend settle for 30 minutes, then label.

Usage

  • Dispense a small amount into the hands, spread it between the palms, then begin massage and add more only as glide decreases.
  • Using the oil in smaller additions gives more control than flooding the skin at the beginning of the massage.
  • For a freer, faster slip stay lower on the castor slider; move higher for more traction, control and cling.
  • It can be used on dry skin or on slightly damp skin when a more emollient, sealing finish is wanted.

Storage

  • Store in a clean, dry bottle away from direct sunlight, warm windowsills and sustained heat.
  • Keep water out of the bottle and avoid touching the bottle opening with wet hands during use.
  • A pump or controlled-pour closure is preferable for repeated use because it limits unnecessary contact with the stored blend.
  • Use within the shortest best-before period of the oils used and discard if the aroma becomes distinctly rancid or the oil changes unexpectedly.

Notes

  • Glide scale: 0% castor / 85% olive at the lightest end. 15% castor / 70% olive at the richest end. Jojoba remains 15% throughout.
  • This is the simpler massage blend: one fixed balancing oil, one variable traction oil, and one main body oil.

Restorative Hydration Layer

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A simple humectant hydration layer applied before an occlusive product to increase surface hydration and reduce a depleted post-wash feel.

Formula Profile

Water-based • unpreserved • vegetable glycerin adjustable from 10–30% • optional inulin adjustable from 0–5% • filtered water automatically fills the remainder.

Comedogenic Rating — 0 (Very low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Filtered water supplies the aqueous phase. Glycerin binds water at the skin surface. Inulin adds optional humectant and conditioning support while dissolving into the same water phase.

Design Rationale

The original 10–30% glycerin range remains the primary control. Inulin is a second optional variable rather than a separate recipe, so 0% inulin reproduces the original water-and-glycerin formula exactly.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Vegetable glycerin varies from 10–30% and inulin varies from 0–5%. Filtered water automatically becomes the remainder so the formula always totals 100%.

Limitations & Trade-offs

Higher glycerin increases surface hold and tack. Higher inulin adds more dissolved solid and conditioning feel. Because the formula contains water and no broad-spectrum preservative, it should be made in small fresh batches unless an appropriate preservation system is used.

Vegetable glycerin
20%
10% — Lighter30% — Stronger humectant hold
Inulin
0%
0% — Original formula5% — Maximum inulin
Overall Feel

Original water-and-glycerin formula range with no inulin added.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Add water: Add the filtered water to a clean bottle or mixing vessel.
  2. Add glycerin: Add the vegetable glycerin and mix until uniform.
  3. Dissolve inulin: Add the inulin amount shown and mix until fully dissolved; when the displayed amount is 0 g, this step adds nothing.
  4. Finish: Cap and shake or stir until the layer is completely uniform.

Usage

  • Apply a small, even amount to clean skin after washing and before a butter, balm or oil-sealing step.
  • Spread it over the skin rather than repeatedly rubbing until dry; the layer is intended to leave water and humectants available at the surface.
  • If a higher-glycerin setting feels too tacky, use less product or select a lower glycerin percentage rather than trying to rub the tackiness away.
  • Follow with the chosen occlusive while the skin still feels hydrated rather than waiting for the layer to become completely dry.

Storage

  • This is a water-based, unpreserved formula. Prepare only a small fresh quantity for immediate use unless a suitable broad-spectrum preservation system has been deliberately incorporated.
  • Do not rely on refrigeration alone to make an unpreserved water-based batch suitable for extended storage.
  • Use clean, dry tools and a clean container, and avoid dipping fingers into the stored product.
  • If a preserved version is made, the preservative must be used within its specified concentration and pH conditions and the finished formula should be treated according to that preservation system rather than given an assumed shelf life.

Notes

  • Original formula range: 10–30% vegetable glycerin • 70–90% filtered water when inulin is 0%.
  • Inulin range: 0–5%; filtered water reduces by the same amount.
  • Default reference: 20% glycerin • 0% inulin • 80% filtered water.

Clarity Face Mask

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A dry face-mask blend designed to absorb excess surface oil and residue while retaining a softer, less stark skin feel than a clay-only mask.

Formula Profile

Dry powder blend • rinse-off • kaolin/oat base • marshmallow mucilage • inulin conditioning support • no water stored in the finished jar.

Comedogenic Rating — 0 (Very low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

White kaolin supplies absorbency; colloidal oatmeal softens the powder profile; marshmallow root develops mucilage and slip when hydrated; inulin dissolves into the wet mask and adds humectant/conditioning support.

Design Rationale

The clay is balanced with oat, marshmallow and inulin so the mask remains clarifying without presenting itself as a pure high-clay treatment.

Variables & Fixed Elements

The stored dry formula is fixed. Batch size can be scaled using Adjustments; water is introduced only when preparing an individual application.

Limitations & Trade-offs

Kaolin can feel drying if the mask is allowed to dry hard on the skin. The blend is not a cleanser replacement and should be rinsed before it becomes fully dry and tight.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Combine: Add the colloidal oatmeal, marshmallow root powder, white kaolin clay and inulin to a clean, completely dry bowl.
  2. Mix: Stir or whisk gently until the powders are completely uniform, avoiding unnecessary airborne dust.
  3. Store: Transfer to a clean, completely dry airtight jar and keep moisture out of the stored blend.

Usage

  1. For one application, place approximately 1 g dry mask in a separate clean dish and mix it with approximately 2 g warm filtered water.
  2. Allow the mixture to hydrate for about 5 minutes, then stir again so the oat, marshmallow and inulin are evenly hydrated.
  3. Apply a thin, even layer to the skin while avoiding the immediate eye area and lips.
  4. Leave on for approximately 8–10 minutes, then rinse before the mask dries hard or begins to feel tight.
  5. Use gentle water and fingertip movement to remove it; do not scrub the dried clay from the skin.

Storage

  • Store the dry powder blend tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from steam, splashes and bathroom humidity where practical.
  • Always decant the amount needed into a separate dish; never return mixed mask or a wet utensil to the storage jar.
  • Use a clean, completely dry spoon for dispensing so the bulk powder remains dry.
  • Discard the stored blend if moisture causes persistent clumping, visible growth, an unexpected odour or another sign of contamination.

Notes

  • The stored recipe contains no added water; water is introduced only to the portion being used.
  • Use cosmetic-grade fine powders and minimise airborne dust while weighing and mixing them.
  • The mask is intended to be rinsed before it fully dries, reducing the tight, brittle feel associated with allowing a clay mask to harden completely.

Sebum-Compatible Cleansing Oil

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A simple two-oil cleansing blend for shower or body use, designed around jojoba-led slip with a lighter safflower supporting phase.

Formula Profile

Anhydrous • preservative-free • 75% jojoba • 25% safflower • fixed two-oil formula.

Comedogenic Rating — 1.6 (Low–Moderate relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Jojoba provides the majority of the cleansing glide and a wax-ester-rich emollient feel. Safflower lightens the blend and contributes a high-linoleic supporting oil phase.

Design Rationale

The 75:25 ratio keeps the formula minimal and avoids adding castor or richer oils when the goal is a straightforward jojoba-led cleansing oil.

Variables & Fixed Elements

The oil ratio is fixed at 75% jojoba and 25% safflower. Only the total batch size and measurement display change through Adjustments.

Limitations & Trade-offs

This is an anhydrous oil cleanser rather than a surfactant body wash, so removal depends on rinsing and/or wiping rather than detergent emulsification.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Combine: Measure the jojoba oil and safflower oil into a clean, completely dry bottle.
  2. Mix: Cap and roll or shake gently until the blend is completely uniform.
  3. Settle: Label the bottle and allow the blend to settle before first use.

Usage

  • Use a small amount on dry or damp skin and massage gently to spread the jojoba-led oil film over the area being cleansed.
  • During shower use, rinse and/or wipe the oil away as preferred rather than continually adding more product.
  • Because the 75:25 ratio is fixed, change the amount used rather than altering the blend when a lighter or heavier application is wanted.
  • Oil on a bath or shower floor can make the surface slippery, so rinse the surrounding surface after use.

Storage

  • Store in a clean, dry bottle away from direct sunlight and sustained heat.
  • Keep shower water out of the bottle; a pump or controlled dispenser is useful when the product is used with wet hands.
  • Do not top up an old bottle with a fresh batch without first cleaning and fully drying the container.
  • Use within the shortest best-before period of the jojoba and safflower oils used and discard if the aroma becomes distinctly rancid or the blend changes unexpectedly.

Notes

  • The ratio remains fixed at 75% jojoba and 25% safflower at every batch size.
  • The product is anhydrous in storage even though it may be used in the shower.

Skin Soft Massage Oil

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A softening body massage oil built around olive-derived squalane, jojoba and extra virgin coconut oil, with optional apricot kernel oil for a richer emollient glide.

Formula Profile

Anhydrous • preservative-free • 45% olive squalane fixed • 20% extra virgin coconut oil fixed • apricot kernel oil adjustable from 0–20% against jojoba.

Comedogenic Rating — 1.7 (Low–Moderate relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Olive squalane provides light, stable emollience; jojoba supplies smooth wax-ester glide; extra virgin coconut oil adds body and a firmer cool-temperature character; apricot kernel oil can replace part of the jojoba for a softer, richer emollient feel.

Design Rationale

The original 45% squalane / 35% jojoba / 20% coconut formula remains the default. Apricot kernel oil is optional and substitutes jojoba one-for-one so the recipe always totals 100%.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Apricot kernel oil varies from 0–20%; jojoba automatically reduces from 35–15%. Olive squalane stays fixed at 45% and extra virgin coconut oil stays fixed at 20%.

Limitations & Trade-offs

Extra virgin coconut oil can thicken, cloud or partly solidify in cooler conditions. Increasing apricot kernel oil gives a richer carrier-oil feel while reducing the jojoba-led wax-ester character.

Apricot kernel oil
0% apricot • 35% jojoba
0% — Original formula20% — Richer apricot glide
Overall Feel

Original-style blend: squalane-led softness with the jojoba phase almost fully intact and coconut adding body.

Ingredients (View)

Method

  1. Combine liquid oils: Weigh the olive squalane, jojoba oil and displayed apricot kernel oil amount into a clean, dry container.
  2. Melt coconut oil: Gently melt the extra virgin coconut oil if it is solid, then add it to the other oils.
  3. Mix: Stir thoroughly until completely uniform.
  4. Transfer: Pour into a clean, dry jar or bottle and allow the blend to return to room temperature before use.

Usage

  • Scoop or pour out a small amount, warm it between the palms, then spread it over the body for massage.
  • Add more gradually as needed; the olive squalane and jojoba provide slip while the coconut oil gives the blend a more substantial body.
  • Use on dry skin for the richest oil feel or on slightly damp skin when a softer sealing finish is preferred.
  • If the blend has firmed in a cool room, scoop out the required amount and let body heat soften it before massage.

Storage

  • Store tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and sustained heat.
  • Keep water out of the container and use clean, dry hands or a dry utensil when the blend is firm enough to require scooping.
  • Cloudiness, thickening or partial solidification in cooler temperatures can occur because of the extra virgin coconut oil and is not by itself a sign of spoilage.
  • Use within the shortest best-before period of the oils used and discard the blend if it develops an unexpected rancid smell or other spoilage signs.

Notes

  • Original formula: 45% olive squalane • 35% jojoba • 20% extra virgin coconut oil.
  • Apricot slider: 0–20% apricot kernel oil replaces jojoba one-for-one; olive squalane and coconut oil remain fixed.

Calming Shave Gel

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A shaving gel designed to provide wet glide, mucilage cushion and a small emollient phase so the blade moves with less drag.

Formula Profile

Water-based • rinse-off • slippery-elm/guar gel • small jojoba phase • unpreserved unless a preservation system is added.

Comedogenic Rating — 0 (Very low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Slippery elm supplies mucilage and cushioning; glycerin adds glide and water retention; guar builds gel structure; jojoba adds a light lubricating emollient layer; water hydrates the gums.

Design Rationale

The formula uses slippery elm for the main shave slip, then adds only enough guar to reach the preferred structure rather than making thickness the dominant feature.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Guar gum is added gradually to the preferred gel consistency. Water, slippery elm, glycerin and jojoba form the fixed base of the recipe.

Limitations & Trade-offs

A water-based gel needs suitable preservation if it is stored rather than made for immediate use. It is intended as a rinse-off shaving medium.

Ingredients (View)

Ingredient Roles

  • Slippery Elm Powder – provides strong mucilage, razor slip and cushioning.
  • Vegetable Glycerin – adds glide and helps retain moisture.
  • Guar Gum – creates the gel structure and controls thickness.
  • Jojoba Oil – provides lubrication and leaves a light protective emollient layer on the skin.
  • Water – hydrates the slippery elm and guar gum.

Method

  1. Combine: Add the slippery elm powder to the water and mix thoroughly.
  2. Hydrate: Allow it to hydrate and develop its natural mucilage.
  3. Add glycerin: Mix in the vegetable glycerin.
  4. Thicken: Gradually add guar gum until the desired shaving-gel thickness is reached.
  5. Add jojoba: Mix in the jojoba oil thoroughly.

Usage

  1. Wet the skin and hair thoroughly with comfortably warm water before applying the gel.
  2. Spread a thin, even layer over the area to be shaved and allow the slippery-elm/guar gel to remain visibly wet.
  3. Shave with short, controlled strokes, rinsing the blade regularly so accumulated gel and hair do not increase drag.
  4. Add a little water or more gel if the surface starts to dry or the razor no longer moves freely.
  5. Rinse the skin thoroughly after shaving and pat dry rather than rubbing the freshly shaved area.

Storage

  • This is a water-based, unpreserved gel. Prepare it for immediate fresh use unless an appropriate broad-spectrum preservation system has been deliberately incorporated.
  • Do not treat refrigeration as a substitute for preservation when keeping a water-based batch for repeated future use.
  • Use a clean container and clean tools, and do not return used gel to the storage container.
  • If a preserved version is made, follow the preservative supplier's concentration and pH requirements and base storage life on the validated preservation system rather than an assumed number of days.

Notes

  • The gel is designed to provide wet glide and cushion rather than a foaming lather.
  • If the gel becomes dry enough for the razor to drag, restore lubrication before continuing rather than increasing blade pressure.

Tooth Polishing Powder

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A dry tooth-polishing powder for occasional removal of surface staining without peroxide, acids, charcoal or baking soda.

Formula Profile

Dry powder • oral-care use • fixed 30 g batch • 80% kaolin, 15% sage and 5% peppermint.

Comedogenic Rating — 0 (Very low relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Superfine white kaolin provides the polishing phase; very finely powdered sage provides the supporting herb phase; peppermint provides mild flavour and freshness.

Design Rationale

The blend is deliberately short and dry, with the polishing function coming from superfine kaolin rather than a chemical bleaching agent.

Variables & Fixed Elements

No slider or variant. The formula is fixed at 24 g kaolin, 4.5 g sage and 1.5 g peppermint for a 30 g batch.

Limitations & Trade-offs

Designed for occasional surface-stain removal. It is not a bleaching or peroxide whitening treatment.

Ingredients (View)

Ingredient Roles

  • White Kaolin Clay – provides gentle polishing to help remove surface staining and brighten the appearance of the teeth.
  • Sage Leaf Powder – traditional oral-care herb that complements the cleansing powder.
  • Peppermint Leaf Powder – provides natural freshness and a mild peppermint flavour.

Method

  1. Weigh: Weigh all ingredients accurately.
  2. Combine: Add the kaolin clay, sage powder and peppermint powder to a completely dry bowl.
  3. Mix: Mix very thoroughly until the herbs are evenly distributed throughout the kaolin.
  4. Transfer: Transfer to a clean, completely dry airtight container.
  5. Keep dry: Keep the powder dry during storage.

Usage

  1. Wet a soft toothbrush, then place a small amount of powder onto the brush from a separate dry spoon or dispensing surface rather than dipping the wet brush into the storage jar.
  2. Brush the tooth surfaces gently for approximately 30–60 seconds; use light pressure because the purpose is surface polishing, not aggressive scrubbing.
  3. Rinse the mouth and toothbrush thoroughly with water after use and spit out the residue rather than intentionally swallowing the powder.
  4. Use approximately 1–2 times per week for occasional surface-stain polishing rather than as the sole product for routine daily dental care.
  5. Stop using it if it produces persistent sensitivity, gum irritation or discomfort.

Storage

  • Keep the powder in a tightly closed, completely dry container away from steam, splashes and bathroom humidity where practical.
  • Dispense with a clean, dry spoon and keep wet toothbrushes or fingers out of the storage jar.
  • Discard the batch if it becomes damp, persistently clumped, visibly contaminated or develops an unexpected odour.
  • Keep the container clearly labelled so the powder is not confused with a food or cosmetic powder intended for another use.

Notes

  • Use only superfine kaolin suitable for oral use and very finely powdered herbs.
  • Contains no baking soda, oil, charcoal, peroxide or acids.
  • This is an occasional surface-polishing formula; it is not a bleaching treatment and does not replace ordinary oral-hygiene care.

Microcurrent Glide Gel

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A water-based conductive working gel that keeps a microcurrent device moving smoothly while maintaining an electrolyte-containing wet contact layer.

Formula profile

Water-based gel • leave on during device treatment, then rinse or wipe away • vegan • 40 g batch • unpreserved / freshly prepared • thick gel • wet, high-glide finish.

Comedogenic Rating — 0 (Very low relative clogging potential)

How the formulation works

Water provides the conductive medium; glycerin extends wet glide; dissolved Dead Sea salt provides electrolytes; guar gives the gel enough stationary structure to remain underneath the device.

Design rationale

Glycerin is kept high enough to extend working time without becoming the dominant phase. Guar provides stationary gel structure so the product remains underneath the device rather than running.

Variables & Fixed Elements

No slider or variant. The conductive medium, humectant, electrolyte and thickener proportions are fixed in the reference formula.

Limitations & Trade-offs

Designed primarily as a conductive working medium for microcurrent treatment rather than as a standalone moisturiser. Because it is water-based and unpreserved, prepare it fresh or use an appropriate preservation system if storing it.

Ingredients (View)

Total – 40.00 g

Ingredient Roles

  • Distilled Water – provides the main water-based conductive medium.
  • Vegetable Glycerin – helps retain moisture, improves glide and slows the gel from drying during microcurrent use.
  • Dead Sea Salt – provides dissolved minerals and electrolytes to support conductivity.
  • Guar Gum – creates a thick, scoopable gel consistency and helps the product remain in place on the skin.

Method

  1. Disperse: Add the guar gum to the vegetable glycerin and mix thoroughly until the guar is evenly dispersed.
  2. Dissolve: Dissolve the Dead Sea salt completely in the distilled water.
  3. Combine: Slowly add the salt water to the glycerin and guar gum mixture while stirring continuously.
  4. Mix: Mix thoroughly until smooth and evenly combined.
  5. Hydrate: Allow the guar gum to hydrate fully and develop its final gel consistency.
  6. Stir: Stir again once fully hydrated.
  7. Portion: Transfer the amount needed for use into a clean, dry ramekin or other easily washable container.

Usage

  1. Apply a generous, even layer to the treatment area so the device has a continuously wet contact medium.
  2. Use the microcurrent device according to its manufacturer's instructions while the gel remains wet and slippery.
  3. Add more gel whenever the device begins to drag; do not compensate for a drying contact layer by pressing the device harder against the skin.
  4. Work section by section if needed so the gel does not dry over a large untreated area before the device reaches it.
  5. After treatment, remove the remaining gel as preferred and wash and fully dry the ramekin or dispensing container before another batch is prepared.

Storage

  • This is a water-based, unpreserved gel. Prepare the amount needed for fresh use rather than routinely storing an unpreserved batch for repeated treatments.
  • Refrigeration alone does not provide broad-spectrum preservation for a water-based gel.
  • Keep preparation tools and containers clean and dry before use, and do not return used gel to the original batch.
  • If the formula is deliberately preserved for storage, use a preservative system compatible with the formula and its pH and follow that system's validated storage conditions.

Notes

  • The formula totals exactly 40.00 g.
  • The gel is a working contact medium for treatment and should remain wet enough that the device glides without drag.
  • Device-specific contraindications, placement restrictions and treatment times come from the microcurrent device manufacturer rather than from the gel recipe.

Comfort Barrier Balm

Batch: 1×

Purpose

A rich anhydrous balm designed for lips and targeted dry areas, with a protective winter-friendly finish and adjustable physical character.

Formula Profile

100 g reference batch • anhydrous • vegan • 45% butters at the default • adjustable butter character and structure.

Comedogenic Rating — 2.4 (Low–Moderate relative clogging potential)

How the Formulation Works

Cocoa butter provides the main rich body; mango softens the butter phase; kokum raises firmness with a relatively dry finish; apricot kernel oil supplies spread; avocado adds richness; red raspberry seed oil diversifies the liquid-oil phase; candelilla reinforces structure; vitamin E supports oxidation resistance.

Design Rationale

The default keeps the total butter phase at 45% while using kokum to reduce dependence on wax. The paired controls change one physical quality at a time while compensating with another ingredient so the formula stays at 100%.

Variables & Fixed Elements

Mango and kokum trade against each other while totaling 25%. Candelilla and apricot kernel oil trade against each other while totaling 28.5%. Cocoa, avocado, red raspberry seed oil and vitamin E stay fixed.

Limitations & Trade-offs

This is an anhydrous conditioning and protective balm, not a water-based hydration layer. For lip use, use cosmetic-grade raw materials that are suitable for lip-care applications.

Yield: 100 g. Anhydrous vegan lip/body balm. The default formula is fixed at the balanced reference point; the sliders let the viewer change two physical qualities while preserving a 100 g batch.

Butter character
15% mango • 10% kokum
5% kokum — Creamier mango balance15% kokum — Firmer butter balance
Structure
3% candelilla • 25.5% apricot kernel oil
2% candelilla — Softer melt4% candelilla — More durable set
Overall Feel

Balanced rich balm with a smooth set, controlled glide and durable protective finish.

Ingredients

Method

  1. Prepare: Clean and completely dry the working area, utensils, heat-safe container and final balm containers.
  2. Weigh: Weigh the cocoa butter, mango butter, kokum butter, candelilla wax and liquid oils in the amounts currently shown in the ingredient list.
  3. Melt: Gently heat the cocoa butter, mango butter, kokum butter and candelilla wax using a water bath or double boiler until just fully melted.
  4. Combine: Remove from direct heat, add the apricot kernel, avocado and red raspberry seed oils, and stir until completely uniform.
  5. Add vitamin E: Allow the mixture to cool slightly while remaining fully liquid, then stir in the vitamin E thoroughly.
  6. Pour: Pour into clean, dry containers and leave undisturbed until completely set and cool.
  7. Cap: Fit the lids once the balm is fully cool and label the batch.

Usage

  • Apply a small amount to the lips or a targeted dry area and spread it into a thin, even protective layer.
  • Warm the balm briefly with a fingertip if the surface is firm, especially at cooler room temperatures.
  • Reapply when the protective film has worn away or the area again feels dry rather than continuously layering large amounts.
  • The softer slider settings give easier pickup and melt; firmer settings give more structure and a more anchored protective film.

Storage

  • Store tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, radiators and sustained heat.
  • Keep water out of the jar and use clean, dry fingers or a dry spatula, particularly when the balm is being used on the lips.
  • Temperature changes can make the balm firmer or softer without changing the formula; allow it to return to normal room temperature before judging its final texture.
  • Use within the shortest best-before period of the oils and butters used and discard the batch if it develops a distinctly rancid odour, visible contamination or another unexpected spoilage sign.

Notes

  • Default formula: 20% cocoa butter • 15% mango butter • 10% kokum butter • 25.5% apricot kernel oil • 15% avocado oil • 11% red raspberry seed oil • 3% candelilla wax • 0.5% vitamin E.
  • Butter character slider: changes mango against kokum while keeping their combined share fixed at 25%.
  • Structure slider: changes candelilla against apricot kernel oil while keeping their combined share fixed at 28.5%.
  • Vitamin E is an antioxidant for the oil phase, not a broad-spectrum preservative.
  • Use cosmetic-grade raw materials suitable for lip-care applications when the product is intended for lips.

Ingredient Library

Comedogenic ratings are informal guides; real-world responses vary by skin type and blend.

Argan Oil

🧪 INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

🌱 Source part: Argan kernel

🗺️ Geographic origin: Morocco, SW Algeria

🧴 Comedogenic: 0–1

💚 Benefits: Softening; antioxidant support; elegant glide

🔧 Usage: 2–30% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 1–2 years

Notes:

  • Vitamin‑E rich oil with a balanced oleic/linoleic profile.
  • Good for: dryness, rough texture, hair ends and beard oils.
  • Use for: softening and improving glide in creams/butters.

Avocado Oil

🧪 INCI: Persea Gratissima Oil

🌱 Source part: Avocado pulp

🗺️ Geographic origin: Mexico, Kenya, Peru, South Africa

🧴 Comedogenic: 2

💚 Benefits: Protective, slow-absorbing; post-exercise comfort

🔧 Usage: 5–50% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: ~1 year

Notes:

  • Rich, nourishing oil with phytosterols; heavier skin feel than seed oils.
  • Good for: dry/mature skin, winter blends, body butters.
  • Use lower % in facial blends if you clog easily.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Calendula Oil (infused)

🧪 INCI: Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract (in carrier)

🌱 Source part: Marigold petals infused in a carrier oil

🗺️ Geographic origin: Europe, North America

🧴 Comedogenic: as per carrier

💚 Benefits: Soothing, redness-reducing; supports recovery

🔧 Usage: 1–10% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: per carrier oil

Notes:

  • Infused oil valued for soothing, comfort‑focused blends.
  • Good for: sensitive-feeling skin, post‑shave, and barrier-support balms.
  • Note: profile depends on the carrier oil used for infusion.

Carnauba Wax

🧪 INCI: Copernicia Cerifera Wax

🌱 Source part: Palm leaf exudate

🗺️ Geographic origin: Northeastern Brazil

🧴 Comedogenic: 1

💚 Benefits: Film-forming protection; structure and gloss

🔧 Usage: 2–20% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 3+ years

Notes:

  • High‑melting vegan wax that adds firmness and heat resistance.
  • Good for: solid balms, deodorant sticks, firmer lip products.
  • Can feel draggy alone—balance with butters/oils.

Relevant recipes: Protective Touch Balm.

Castor Oil

🧪 INCI: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

🌱 Source part: Castor seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: India, Brazil, China

🧴 Comedogenic: 1

💚 Benefits: Gentle cleansing pull; viscosity adds grip for oil washing

🔧 Usage: 2–20% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 1–2 years

Notes:

  • Very viscous oil (ricinoleic‑acid rich) that adds cling and gloss.
  • Good for: lip products, hair ends, brows/lashes (sparingly).
  • Use low–moderate % to avoid tackiness.

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser, Protective Touch Balm, Anhydrous Massage Oil Blend.

Cucumber Hydrosol

🧪 INCI: Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Water

🌱 Source part: Cucumber fruit (steam distillate / hydrosol)

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by producer (often EU/UK)

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Very light, calming aromatic water; gentle hydration support

🔧 Usage: 5–100% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 2–6 months once opened (refrigerate if unpreserved)

Notes:

  • Cooling, refreshing hydrosol that can reduce the feeling of heat/puffiness.
  • Good for: spritzes, compresses, and calming routines.
  • Storage: keep cool and use within shelf life / with appropriate preservation.

Cucumber Seed Oil

🧪 INCI: Cucumis Sativus Seed Oil

🌱 Source part: Cucumber seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: Europe, North Africa, India, Eastern Mediterranean

🧴 Comedogenic: 1

💚 Benefits: Lightweight; supports elasticity; calms

🔧 Usage: 2–30% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: ~1 year (refrigerate to extend)

Notes:

  • High in linoleic acid; lightweight emollient that absorbs quickly.
  • Good for: oily/combination skin, balancing blends, lightweight body oils.
  • Pairs well with: jojoba + watermelon seed for a non-greasy finish.

Dead Sea Salt

🧪 INCI: Maris Sal (Dead Sea Salt)

🌱 Source part: Mineral salts

🗺️ Geographic origin: Dead Sea (Israel/Jordan)

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Mineral-rich bath soaks; distinctive mineral profile; rinse-off scrubs

🔧 Usage: Bath soaks as desired • 🧊 Stability/Storage: Indefinite if dry

Notes:

  • Sea-mineral salt (Maris Sal) with a distinctive mineral profile and higher magnesium/potassium content than typical table salt.
  • Good for: mineral bath soaks and scrubs (rinse off).
  • Use: dissolve fully; patch test if sensitive; keep dry to prevent clumping.

Distilled/Filtered Water

🧪 INCI: Aqua

🌱 Source part: Purified water

🗺️ Geographic origin: —

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Clean solvent base; lowers contamination risk

🔧 Usage: As required • 🧊 Stability/Storage: N/A

Notes:

  • Use distilled/filtered water to reduce contamination risk in DIY mixes.
  • Good for: hydrating sprays and dilution of humectants.
  • Safety: any water-based formula needs preservation if stored.

Relevant recipes: Restorative Hydration Layer, Microcurrent Glide Gel.

Epsom Salt

🧪 INCI: Magnesium Sulfate

🌱 Source part: Mineral salts

🗺️ Geographic origin: Mined/processed globally

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Bath soaks; relaxing mineral soak feel; rinse-off exfoliation

🔧 Usage: Bath soaks as desired • 🧊 Stability/Storage: Indefinite if dry

Notes:

  • Magnesium sulfate crystals used primarily for bath soaks.
  • Good for: relaxing soaks and a “mineral bath” feel (not for leave‑on skincare).
  • Use: dissolve fully; avoid broken/irritated skin if it stings.

Guar Gum Powder

🧪 INCI: Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba (Guar) Gum

🌱 Source part: Guar bean endosperm (ground)

🗺️ Geographic origin: India, Pakistan (major), USA/Australia

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Thickener and slip enhancer; improves gel body and stability

🔧 Usage: 0.1–0.8% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 1–2 years dry (airtight, cool)

Notes:

  • Natural thickener that boosts viscosity in water-based mixes.
  • Good for: gels/serums; improves slip and reduces runniness.
  • Tip: sprinkle slowly while mixing to avoid clumps.

Jojoba Oil

🧪 INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

🌱 Source part: Jojoba seed (liquid wax ester)

🗺️ Geographic origin: USA (SW), Mexico, Argentina, Israel, Australia

🧴 Comedogenic: 0–2

💚 Benefits: Biomimetic sebum; regulates feel; improves slip

🔧 Usage: 1–50% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 2–3 years (very stable)

Notes:

  • Liquid wax ester similar to human sebum; supports a balanced skin feel.
  • Good for: oily/combination skin, scalp/beard blends, reducing “greasy” feel in oils.
  • Very stable; helps improve shelf life of blends.

Relevant recipes: Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm, Anhydrous Massage Oil Blend.

Lavender Essential Oil

🧪 INCI: Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

🌱 Source part: Flowering tops (steam distillate)

🗺️ Geographic origin: France, Bulgaria, UK, Spain

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Soothing aroma; mild antimicrobial (very low dose)

🔧 Usage: 0.1–0.5% leave-on • 🧊 Storage: cool, dark; cap tightly

Notes:

  • Fragrant essential oil used for scent + gentle soothing in low doses.
  • Good for: bedtime balms and calming blends (keep total EO load low).
  • Sensitivity note: patch test; avoid on broken/irritated skin.

Olive Oil

🧪 INCI: Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

🌱 Source part: Olive fruit

🗺️ Geographic origin: Mediterranean basin (Spain, Italy, Greece, Tunisia, Turkey)

🧴 Comedogenic: 2

💚 Benefits: Emollient cushion; antioxidant support

🔧 Usage: 5–70% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: ~1 year

Notes:

  • Oleic‑rich oil; very emollient and protective. Used neat or at higher percentages it can feel richer on the skin—blend with lighter oils for a smoother finish.
  • Good for: very dry body areas, soapmaking, and balm bases.
  • For highly congestion‑prone facial skin, keep percentages low (or reserve for body/balm bases).

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser, Anhydrous Massage Oil Blend.

Rose Water (hydrosol)

🧪 INCI: Rosa Damascena Flower Water

🌱 Source part: Flower hydrosol (steam distillation)

🗺️ Geographic origin: Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, Morocco

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Aromatic toning, soothing feel

🔧 Usage: 5–50% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 6–12 months (cool)

Notes:

  • Hydrosol with a soft, soothing scent and refreshing feel.
  • Good for: facial mists, compresses, and diluting glycerin sprays.
  • Storage: keep cool; use within shelf life / with appropriate preservation.

Relevant recipes: Restorative Hydration Layer, Microcurrent Glide Gel.

Safflower Oil

🧪 INCI: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

🌱 Source part: Safflower seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: India, USA, Mexico, Australia

🧴 Comedogenic: 0–1

💚 Benefits: Light emollient feel; linoleic-rich barrier support; low-weight cleanse base

🔧 Usage: 5–100% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: ~9–12 months (cool, dark)

Notes:

  • Usually chosen in its high-linoleic form for a lighter, calmer skin feel than richer oleic oils.
  • Good for: reactive-feeling skin, lighter body oils, and safflower-led cleansing blends.
  • Use vitamin E and store cool to help slow oxidation.

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser.

Shea Butter (Unrefined)

🧪 INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter

🌱 Source part: Shea nut kernel fat

🗺️ Geographic origin: West Africa (Ghana, Burkina Faso, Nigeria, Benin, Côte d’Ivoire)

🧴 Comedogenic: 0–2

💚 Benefits: Occlusive protection; barrier repair; softness

🔧 Usage: 5–80% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 1–2 years, cool/dark

Notes:

  • Chosen unrefined for a richer micronutrient profile (more natural unsaponifiables such as tocopherols, phytosterols, and triterpene alcohols) than typical refined/deodorised butter.
  • Good for: barrier support, dry/flaky skin, protective balms and butters.
  • Texture note: can “grain” after temperature swings; brief chill then re‑whip to smooth.

Slippery Elm Powder

🧪 INCI: Ulmus Rubra Bark Extract

🌱 Source part: Inner bark, dried & milled

🗺️ Geographic origin: Eastern North America

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Soothing gel; blade slip; calms irritation

🔧 Usage: ~1–2 tbsp per cup water • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 1–2 years dry (airtight)

Notes:

  • Plant mucilage powder that makes a soothing, gel-like texture in water.
  • Good for: short‑life masks and calming gels.
  • Make fresh and discard if smell/texture changes.

Vegetable Glycerin

🧪 INCI: Glycerin

🌱 Source part: Plant-derived (e.g., rapeseed/soy byproducts)

🗺️ Geographic origin: Global

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Binds water; reduces tightness; smooth slip in gels

🔧 Usage: 0.5–5% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 2+ years

Notes:

  • Humectant that binds water and supports hydration when diluted.
  • Good for: dry/dehydrated skin; mix into water/hydrosols and apply to damp skin.
  • Used neat or at higher percentages it can feel tacky—keep to a moderate % and dilute (or blend) for best feel.

Relevant recipes: Restorative Hydration Layer, Calming Shave Gel.

Vitamin E (Tocopherol)

🧪 INCI: Tocopherol

🌱 Source part: Plant-derived mixed tocopherols (often from soy/sunflower)

🗺️ Geographic origin: Global (major production USA/EU/China)

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Slows oxidation; supports skin antioxidant capacity

🔧 Usage: 0.1–1% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 2 years (cool, dark)

Notes:

  • Antioxidant (not a preservative) used to slow oxidation in oil blends.
  • Good for: extending shelf-life of seed oils and nut oils.
  • Typical use: ~0.2–1% depending on formula.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Fractionated Coconut Oil

🧪 INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

🌱 Source part: Coconut oil fraction

🗺️ Geographic origin: Global

🧴 Comedogenic: 1

💚 Benefits: Very light spreadability; quick glide; clean finish

🔧 Usage: 2–60% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 1–2 years

Notes:

  • Light, stable carrier that spreads quickly and reduces drag.
  • Useful when you want a cleaner, faster-moving oil phase.
  • Often used to offset richer oils without making the blend feel dry.

Watermelon Seed Oil

🧪 INCI: Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

🌱 Source part: Watermelon seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: Africa, Mediterranean, India (varies by supplier)

🧴 Comedogenic: ~1 (generally low)

💚 Benefits: Lightweight, quick-absorbing; linoleic-acid rich; supports softness without heaviness

🔧 Usage: 2–30% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: ~1 year (cool/dark; refrigerate to extend)

Notes:

  • Very lightweight seed oil; typically linoleic‑forward with a dry finish.
  • Good for: acne‑prone or congested skin where heavier oils feel occlusive.
  • Use for: facial oils and lightweight body serums.

White Vinegar

🧪 INCI: Acetic Acid (diluted)

🌱 Source part: Fermentation distillate

🗺️ Geographic origin: Global

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Mild keratolytic; pH rebalance in bath rinse

🔧 Usage: Small amounts in bath water; rinse after • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 2+ years sealed

Notes:

  • Diluted acetic acid used in small amounts for bath/rinse purposes.
  • Good for: occasional bath rinses where a mild acidic finish feels helpful.
  • Dilute well; avoid eyes and broken/irritated skin.

Witch Hazel (alcohol-free)

🧪 INCI: Hamamelis Virginiana Water

🌱 Source part: Bark/leaf steam distillate

🗺️ Geographic origin: North America, EU cultivation

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Astringent-toning; calms; reduces transient redness

🔧 Usage: 5–50% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: 6–12 months (cool)

Notes:

  • Alcohol‑free witch hazel offers a gentle astringent feel.
  • Good for: oily/congested skin; use as a light toner or mix-in for spritzes.
  • Follow with hydration if you feel dryness.

Cocoa Butter

🧪 INCI: Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

🌱 Source part: Cocoa seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: Tropical growing regions; varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: ~3–4 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Firm emollient body; persistent protective feel; rich lip-balm texture

🔧 Usage: 5–100% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: typically 1–2 years, cool and dry

Notes:

  • Firm butter rich in stearic and oleic fatty acids.
  • Useful for: lip balms, body butters and protective winter formulas.
  • Adds body and richness but can feel heavy at high levels on congestion-prone facial skin.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Mango Butter

🧪 INCI: Mangifera Indica Seed Butter

🌱 Source part: Mango seed/kernel

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: ~1–2 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Softening emollience; smoother pickup; creamier balm character

🔧 Usage: 3–100% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: typically 1–2 years, cool and dry

Notes:

  • Softer-feeling butter that balances harder butters and waxes.
  • Useful for: lip care, body butters and richer moisturising balms.
  • In Comfort Barrier Balm it compensates against kokum to control creaminess versus firmness.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Kokum Butter

🧪 INCI: Garcinia Indica Seed Butter

🌱 Source part: Kokum seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: India

🧴 Comedogenic: ~1–2 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Firm structure; comparatively dry finish; durable emollient body

🔧 Usage: 2–100% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: typically 1–2 years, cool and dry

Notes:

  • Hard butter with a high stearic-acid contribution and good oxidative stability.
  • Useful when a balm needs more firmness without relying entirely on wax.
  • In Comfort Barrier Balm it compensates against mango butter to control the butter phase.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Apricot Kernel Oil

🧪 INCI: Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

🌱 Source part: Apricot kernel

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: ~2 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Smooth spread; lighter emollience; reduces dense butter drag

🔧 Usage: 2–100% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: commonly ~1 year, cool and dark

Notes:

  • Oleic/linoleic carrier oil with a lighter feel than the harder butter phase.
  • Useful for: lip products, facial oils and body blends.
  • In Comfort Barrier Balm it compensates against candelilla wax so the total remains 100%.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Red Raspberry Seed Oil

🧪 INCI: Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

🌱 Source part: Raspberry seed

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: ~1–2 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Lightweight seed-oil emollience; fatty-acid diversity; antioxidant-containing unsaponifiables

🔧 Usage: 1–20% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: commonly ~6–12 months, cool and dark

Notes:

  • Polyunsaturated seed oil used to diversify the liquid-oil phase.
  • Keep protected from unnecessary heat, light and air to slow oxidation.
  • Does not replace a tested sunscreen or provide a dependable SPF claim.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Candelilla Wax

🧪 INCI: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax

🌱 Source part: Candelilla plant surface wax

🗺️ Geographic origin: Mexico and the southwestern United States

🧴 Comedogenic: ~1 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Vegan structure; film persistence; improved heat resistance and staying power

🔧 Usage: commonly 1–10% in balms • 🧊 Stability/Storage: several years when kept cool and dry

Notes:

  • Hard plant wax used at modest levels to reinforce a butter-and-oil balm.
  • Higher levels can increase drag or brittleness, so it is balanced against emollients.
  • In Comfort Barrier Balm it compensates against apricot kernel oil to control structure.

Relevant recipes: Comfort Barrier Balm.

Olive Squalane

🧪 INCI: Squalane

🌱 Source part: Olive-derived squalene, hydrogenated to stable squalane

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 0–1 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Lightweight stable emollience; smooth slip; soft non-waxy skin feel

🔧 Usage: commonly 1–100% in anhydrous blends • 🧊 Stability/Storage: highly oxidation-stable; keep sealed, cool and away from direct sunlight

Notes:

  • Squalane is the hydrogenated, oxidation-stable form of squalene.
  • Olive-derived squalane supplies light emollience without behaving like a triglyceride carrier oil.
  • Used in Skin Soft Massage Oil as the fixed 45% primary emollient phase.

Relevant recipes: Skin Soft Massage Oil.

Extra Virgin Coconut Oil

🧪 INCI: Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

🌱 Source part: Coconut kernel

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: ~4 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Rich emollience; body and cushion; semi-solid structure in cooler conditions

🔧 Usage: formula dependent • 🧊 Stability/Storage: store cool, dry and sealed

Notes:

  • Unrefined coconut oil may become solid, cloudy or grainy as temperature changes.
  • It is distinct from fractionated coconut oil, which remains liquid and has a different sensory profile.
  • Used in Skin Soft Massage Oil as a fixed 20% phase.

Relevant recipes: Skin Soft Massage Oil.

Colloidal Oatmeal

🧪 INCI: Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour

🌱 Source part: Finely milled oat kernel

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 0–1 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Soothing powder base; supports scalp and skin comfort; adds soft slip

🔧 Usage: commonly 1–100% in dry/rinse-off blends • 🧊 Stability/Storage: keep completely dry and airtight

Notes:

  • Very finely milled oatmeal used for comfort-focused skin and scalp formulas.
  • Disperses into water to form a soft suspension rather than behaving like a detergent.
  • Use cosmetic-grade colloidal oatmeal where a consistently fine particle size is needed.

Marshmallow Root Powder

🧪 INCI: Althaea Officinalis Root Powder

🌱 Source part: Marshmallow root

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 0 (informal guide)

💚 Benefits: Mucilage-rich slip; conditioning feel; helps reduce friction during washing

🔧 Usage: commonly 1–30% in powder and rinse-off formulas • 🧊 Stability/Storage: keep dry and airtight

Notes:

  • Contains water-swellable mucilage that becomes slippery when hydrated.
  • Useful where a powder wash needs glide without relying on conventional surfactants.
  • Fine powder is preferable for easier mixing and rinsing.

Chicory-Root Inulin

🧪 INCI: Inulin

🌱 Source part: Commonly extracted from chicory root

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Humectant and conditioning support; improves the soft feel of rinse-off blends

🔧 Usage: commonly 0.5–10% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: keep dry and sealed

Notes:

  • Water-soluble fructan powder used as a mild conditioning and moisture-binding ingredient.
  • Works well in simple powder systems because it dissolves during hydration.
  • It is not a preservative and does not make a water-containing mixture shelf-stable.

Sunflower Lecithin Powder

🧪 INCI: Lecithin

🌱 Source part: Sunflower seed-derived phospholipids

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 1–2 (informal guide; formula dependent)

💚 Benefits: Dispersing and emulsifying support; helps oil mix more evenly into a wet rinse-off formula

🔧 Usage: commonly 0.5–10% • 🧊 Stability/Storage: keep cool, dry and tightly sealed

Notes:

  • Phospholipid-rich powder that helps bridge oil and water phases.
  • In the hair wash it supports dispersion of the small jojoba/argan oil phase and natural scalp oils.
  • It is not a conventional detergent surfactant and does not guarantee complete oil removal by itself.

Superfine White Kaolin Clay

🧪 INCI: Kaolin

🌱 Source part: Naturally occurring mineral clay

🗺️ Geographic origin: Mined and processed in multiple regions worldwide

🧴 Comedogenic: 0

💚 Benefits: Fine mineral polishing and absorbency; dry powder structure

🔧 Usage: formula dependent • 🧊 Stability/Storage: indefinite when clean and dry

Notes:

  • Fine kaolin is gentler-feeling than coarser abrasive powders when particle size is tightly controlled.
  • For the tooth powder, use only a superfine grade specifically suitable for the intended oral/food-contact use.
  • Keep the powder completely dry to prevent clumping and contamination.

Relevant recipes: Tooth Polishing Powder.

Finely Powdered Sage Leaf

🧪 INCI: Salvia Officinalis Leaf Powder

🌱 Source part: Sage leaf

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 0 (rinse-off powder use)

💚 Benefits: Botanical powder used for flavour/aroma and traditional oral-care character

🔧 Usage: low percentages in fine powder blends • 🧊 Stability/Storage: keep dry, dark and airtight

Notes:

  • Use a very fine powder so the blend remains smooth rather than gritty.
  • Botanical powders vary in strength, colour and aroma between batches.
  • For oral use, choose material supplied for that intended use.

Relevant recipes: Tooth Polishing Powder.

Finely Powdered Peppermint Leaf

🧪 INCI: Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Powder

🌱 Source part: Peppermint leaf

🗺️ Geographic origin: Varies by supplier

🧴 Comedogenic: 0 (rinse-off powder use)

💚 Benefits: Fresh botanical flavour/aroma; complements dry oral-care powders

🔧 Usage: low percentages in fine powder blends • 🧊 Stability/Storage: keep dry, dark and airtight

Notes:

  • Use very finely powdered leaf to minimise coarse particles.
  • Leaf powder is milder and compositionally different from concentrated peppermint essential oil.
  • For oral use, choose material supplied for that intended use.

Relevant recipes: Tooth Polishing Powder.

Skin Support System

Reference cards for the biological systems a barrier-first, vegan routine is designed to protect. These are not marketing claims — they are practical anchors for understanding why the recipes are built the way they are.

Acid Mantle

The acid mantle is a thin, mildly acidic film on the skin surface created by sebum, sweat, and cellular by-products. It supports barrier enzymes and discourages opportunistic microbes.

Why it matters: repeated high-pH cleansing or detergents can slow barrier recovery and increase sensitivity.

Common signs it’s stressed: tightness after cleansing, stinging, “reactive” feeling skin.

How Baseline recipes support it: lipid-based cleansing reduces large pH swings and avoids repeated stripping.

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser, Protective Touch Balm.

Carrier Oils

Carrier oils are plant oils used as the “base” of a formula. They dilute and carry other lipid-soluble ingredients and strongly shape the feel and comedogenic behaviour of a blend.

Why it matters: the carrier determines slip, absorption speed, and the fatty-acid profile your skin is exposed to most.

How Baseline uses them: simple, few-ingredient blends so you can predict how your skin responds.

Examples on this site: Argan Oil, Olive Oil, Jojoba Oil (where listed).

Comedogenic Rating

Comedogenicity ratings are an imperfect, non-standardised guide to relative pore-clogging potential. They are commonly shown on a 0–5 scale, but they are not a measured probability that a product will clog pores.

Recipe score bands: 0–0.4 Very low • 0.5–1.4 Low • 1.5–2.4 Low–Moderate • 2.5–3.4 Moderate • 3.5–4.4 Moderately high • 4.5–5 High. Recipe scores are weighted from the displayed ingredient amounts and are only a relative guide.

How to use this rating:

  • Use it as a signal, not a rule: skin type, formula, and percentage matter as much as the ingredient.
  • Blend context matters: a “higher” oil used at a small % inside a balm may behave differently than the same oil used undiluted.
  • Prefer stability over perfection: if you’re acne-prone, start with lower-rated oils and change one variable at a time.
  • Texture notes need context: descriptions like “heavier feel” refer to higher-% or undiluted use; in blends they often feel lighter.

Where it matters here: the recipes are designed to be simple enough that you can adjust carriers if you notice congestion.

Relevant recipes: Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm.

Essential Oils

Essential oils are concentrated aromatic extracts. They can smell pleasant, but they are also common sensitisation triggers, especially on compromised barriers.

Why it matters: “natural” does not mean low-risk; repeated exposure can raise irritation or sensitisation over time.

How Baseline treats them: generally avoided in baseline mode to keep variables and irritant load low. If used at all, it should be rare, very low %, and not on reactive skin.

Relevant recipes: baseline recipes prioritise carrier oils/butters instead of fragrance actives.

Humectant

Humectants are water-binding materials that help keep hydration at the skin surface when enough water is present.

Why it matters: they help reduce the dry, depleted post-wash feel, but they work best when paired with an occlusive layer rather than left exposed in a drying environment.

Examples here: glycerin and water-based hydration layers.

Relevant recipes: Restorative Hydration Layer, Microcurrent Glide Gel.

Emollient

Emollients soften and smooth the skin surface by filling roughness and improving slip.

Why it matters: they change drag, spread, and after-feel. This is one reason two oil blends can both moisturise yet feel very different in use.

Examples here: olive oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, and butters.

Relevant recipes: Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm, Anhydrous Massage Oil Blend.

Occlusive

Occlusives sit more protectively on the skin surface and slow evaporative water loss.

Why it matters: humectants bind water, but occlusives help keep that water from leaving too quickly.

Examples here: shea-rich balms and butters used after damp-skin application.

Relevant recipes: Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm, Restorative Hydration Layer.

Skin Barrier

The skin barrier is the functional outer defence formed by the stratum corneum, its lipids, and the surface environment that keeps water in and friction, irritants, and microbial disruption down.

Why it matters: when barrier function drops, skin often feels tight, rough, easily irritated, or unpredictably reactive.

How Baseline works with it: reduce unnecessary stripping, replace only what is useful, then seal with a literal protective layer where needed.

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser, Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm, Restorative Hydration Layer.

Inflammatory Threshold

Skin has a tolerance limit for stimulation. Repeated “small” irritation can accumulate until the threshold is crossed and reactions become frequent and unpredictable.

Why it matters: active-heavy routines can feel fine for months, then suddenly become intolerable.

Common signs it’s stressed: random flushing, stinging from basic products, rebound oiliness or dryness.

How Baseline recipes support it: fewer variables, minimal actives, and consistent textures reduce cumulative load.

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser, Microcurrent Glide Gel.

Linoleic and Oleic Oils

Carrier oils differ by fatty-acid profile, and that changes how a formula behaves on skin.

Linoleic-rich oils: usually feel lighter, spread faster, and leave less residue. They are useful where a quicker finish or lower surface weight is preferred.

Oleic-rich oils: usually feel richer, slower, and more cushioning. They are useful where longer massage time, stronger emollient feel, or more protective body is needed.

How Baseline uses this: the recipes keep carrier systems simple so you can change the functional direction of a blend without rebuilding everything around it.

Relevant recipes: Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm, Anhydrous Massage Oil Blend.

Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF)

NMF is a mixture of amino acids, salts, sugars, and other small molecules inside the stratum corneum that bind water and keep skin flexible.

Why it matters: low humidity and over-washing reduce NMF, leading to persistent dryness even with “moisturiser”.

How Baseline recipes support it: reduced cleansing frequency and sealing on slightly damp skin helps retain existing water and NMF.

Relevant recipes: Microcurrent Glide Gel, Protective Touch Balm.

Skin Microbiome

The skin microbiome is an ecosystem of microbes that can support immune signalling and compete with pathogens on healthy skin.

Why it matters: over-cleansing and frequent “sterilising” products can destabilise balance and keep irritation cycling.

How Baseline recipes support it: gentle cleansing and consistent products reduce disruptive swings in environment and exposure.

Relevant recipes: Anhydrous Oil Cleanser, Calming Shave Gel.

Stratum Corneum

The stratum corneum is the outermost barrier layer — a “brick and mortar” structure of corneocytes and lipids. It is the primary physical barrier to the environment.

Why it matters: disruption increases roughness, flaking, sensitivity, and TEWL.

How Baseline recipes support it: butters and balms reinforce lipid continuity instead of repeatedly dissolving it.

Relevant recipes: Nurturing Glow Butter, Protective Touch Balm.

Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

TEWL is passive water loss through the skin. Higher TEWL usually means the barrier is compromised.

Why it matters: elevated TEWL can feel like “dryness that won’t moisturise”.

How Baseline recipes support it: occlusive lipids and timely application reduce unnecessary evaporation.

Relevant recipes: Protective Touch Balm, Nurturing Glow Butter.

Routine Log

Record completed actions for the selected date. Weekly actions remain available until their weekly target is reached.

Skincare Calendar

Select Week or Month. Each day opens directly in Routine Log.